**Strength Endurance**

**Strength endurance is what gets you up the route. It's the ability to do 5 to 25 just barely sub-maximal moves in a row without resting. Because these moves are just barely sub-maximal they require that one can do hard moves (though not maximally hard moves) and sustain a roughly 70% maxmimal output for multiple moves in a row. Training strength endurance involves two main components:**

**1. Increasing the anaerobic threshold or the point at which the muscles start to function without oxygen. For example, being able to do more moves without feeling pumped.**

**2. Increasing the amount of fuel in the muscle working without oxygen and increasing the rate at which that fuel is replaced. In other words, climbing while pumped as shit and being able to recover on the jug.**

**The idea with this workout is to begin with 2x2s (2 problems back to back followed by a rest for 2 minutes then repeat the problems) then add a problem to build a 3x3 which uses the two problems from the 2x2 plus a new one. Once the 3x3 can be done add another problem to build a 4x4 composed of the same 3 problems plus a new one. In my experience it takes two workouts to be able to complete each level (2x2 - 3x3 - 4x4). Usually in the first workout I fail on the last problem of the set. By the second workout I usually complete the set without falling. It takes a little bit of trial and error to get problems of the appropriate difficulty. A good rule of thumb is either fall or barely complete the last problem of each set in the first workout. By the second workout you should be able to complete all sets. Do not move on to the next level until the all the problems are done without falling.**

**Workout 1A:**

**Do 2 problems back to back at about onsight level with about a 3 minute rest in between each round. Do 2 rounds so a total of 4 boulder problems.**

**To determine the problems warm up to a max onsight level boulder problem. If this problem seems good (sustained and continuos moves at a reasonable difficulty and about 7 - 10 moves) then use it as problem 1. If it is not good then find two good problems at onsight level and onsight them.**

**Once you have your two problems do those 2 problems back to back with no rest (this is one round) then rest about 3 minutes and repeat.**

**Workout 1A_1:**

**Do the same problems you did on day 1A but this time do them for 2 rounds with each round separated by about 10-15 minutes. So do eight problems total.**

**Fingerboard: Repeaters (see video)**

**1 set each of 5 reps at 10 seconds per rep. For the weight use about 30-40% of the 13 second 1-rep max. If this feels to easy or too hard adjust accordingly.**

**1/2 crimp on an 18mm edge: (total hang time of 50 seconds)**

**Pinch block: (total hang time of 50 seconds)**

**Middle 2: (total hang time of 50 seconds)**

**Workout 1B: 3x3**

**After completing the 2x2 workout successfully for two rounds add a problem to those two problems and do these three problems 3 times in a row.**

**Workout 1B_1:**

**Do the 3x3 from workout 1B for 1 round:**

**Fingerboard: Repeaters**

**1 set each of 5 reps at 10 seconds per rep. Add or subtract weight based on performance of last workout.**

**1/2 crimp on an 18mm edge: (total hang time of 50 seconds)**

**Pinch block: (total hang time of 50 seconds)**

**Middle 2: (total hang time of 50 seconds)**

**Workout 1B_1*:**

**If unable to complete the 3x3 from 1B_1 then repeat 1B_1. Continue until you can do the 3x3 from 1B_1. If 1B_1 is completed then move to 1C_1.**

**Workout 1C: 4x4**

After completing the 3x3 workout successfully add a problem to those three problems and do these four problems 4 times in a row. It is very important that you are able to successfully complete the 3 problems from the 3x3 before moving a 4x4.

Workout 1C_1:

Do the 4x4 for 1 round:

Fingerboard: Repeaters

1 set each of 5 reps at 10 seconds per rep. Add weight to fail at the 5 rep mark.

1/2 crimp on an 18mm edge: (total hang time of 50 seconds)

Pinch block: (total hang time of 50 seconds)

Middle 2: (total hang time of 50 seconds)

After completing the 3x3 workout successfully add a problem to those three problems and do these four problems 4 times in a row. It is very important that you are able to successfully complete the 3 problems from the 3x3 before moving a 4x4.

Workout 1C_1:

Do the 4x4 for 1 round:

Fingerboard: Repeaters

1 set each of 5 reps at 10 seconds per rep. Add weight to fail at the 5 rep mark.

1/2 crimp on an 18mm edge: (total hang time of 50 seconds)

Pinch block: (total hang time of 50 seconds)

Middle 2: (total hang time of 50 seconds)

**Workout 2: Training to climb pumped:**

**Take any of the above 2x2, 3x3 or 4x4 workouts and in between each problem pull onto the wall on a jug near the next problem and shake out for 30 seconds. After the 30 seconds traverse into the problem.**

Workout 2_1:

Workout 2_1:

**Adding moves to boulder problems:**

**Choose a boulder problem that is at about onsight level and do it.**

**Once you've done the problem add traverse moves into it such that you can complete the entire problem. Keep adding moves until until you can't complete the now longer boulder problem.**